Hanoi / Halong Bay

Lauren; Hmmm seems like ages since we updated. Basically we caught a plane (which was delayed so many times we could have taken a Cyclo) to Hanoi, the capital. The NOISE here is unbeliveable, I heard today that all of the scooters and motorbikes get their horns "pimped' so that they are much much louder than normal - this really explains alot of mental torture!!! Crossing the road here is worse as well, the people of Hanoi are far more affluent, snobbish and less likely to swerve when dumb arse tourists are crossing the street. This, coupled with a couple of days walking about, shopping, site seeing, sun stroke etc made for a 'full on' couple of days. Alot of french influence as always, and alot of Chinese influence as well, being at the north end - I dont think I have to explain the less appealing meat option to you.

People here do have more opportunities etc as apposed to the "non communist" south who seem to be given abit less as revenge for past opinions. We see alot of Communist Posters here as well - i tried to take a picture of one but stupidly did so near a pollitical rally and got into abit of trouble seeing as there were about 20 police near me which I didnt see. Some things are best left to the memory! SO....to get a 'holiday' from our Holiday in Halong Bay was looking VERY good!!!! We tried to get a three day tour though could only get two days at the right price, bit of a shame, but what an awesome trip!!!!

Natalie: It will surprise you all to know that I have finally found the delete button on my camera and used...I know, it made me want to cry as well...poor me. But with only 15 photos left, Halong needed a lot more attention. After our bus trip on what could only be described as luxury after the 'chicken run' style that we did in Cambodia we arrived. Cruising the Bay was awesome with cold beer in hand and camera in the other (yes this is possible my friends) We arrived at a cave that was astounding, well lit with lots of different colours and wonderful staligmites and staligtites (if that is how you spell them) When we exited though it was mighty hot and we took off for our destination for the evening and well deserved dunk in the Ocean (South China Sea) not realising how strong the current was I gleefully jumped off the top and looked like I was in a lap pool....small difficulties getting out. At one stage a french girl was trying to explain to Lauren that there was something in the water but did not know the english word until I floated by at speed. We met some great people and had a lovely dinner on board. A wonderful way to spend the last couple of days. More swimming this morning, but not enough...At one stage I was thinking of how I could stow away on the next cruise....mmm

Both Lauren and I were really impressed with the boat, it was huge and only took 16 people. It never felt crowded and the bathroom was better than some of the guest houses we have stayed in. Kangaroo Cafe run the tours and a 2 day 1 night was $55US which is really cheap for what you are getting, they were the first and are by far the best from what we have seen. If you ever come here we suggest them (as do many others).

This is my last night...Lauren is crying in the fetal position in the corner (as if) We splashed out and went to a nice restaurant that is run as a project that takes in and trains disadvantaged kids for culinary careers. AWESOME service and the food was great as well. Nice end to the trip. Well, I had better go. Most of you won't read this before I get back I imagine, but I am looking forward to seeing you. But will be crying within 2 days of not seeing Lolly..boo hoo (wish I had taken another week.......)

Lauren; sob sob...I wish you had taken the extra week as well....just leave then....go on....leave me to fend for myself, I dont care......sob sob.......

Welcome to the World Baby no name!!!!

Lauren: Congratulations to my dear friends, Sarah and Jamie who have just had a little girl (number two) Jamie, it looks likes your football team of boys wont' eventuate. No name last I heard but am very much looking forward to meeting the new chick in the gang. I have suggested that "Lauren" is a great name, still no word on the decision though....

Well, from Hoi we took the train, the Reunification Express (my inspiration for the trip here, as I had originally wanted to take the train the whole way) to Hue which took just around three hours but delivered some great scenery along the way. Hue is a great city, less hassle than anywhere else which made it a great spot to hire push bikes, see the town and basically just 'get lost'. We rode across the river to the famed citadel, found a great lunch spot and somewhere to watch the sun set. Was one of our best days to date.

Today, we spent the whopping $10US for a tour of the surrounding area, we are close to the 17th parrallel, the Ben Hai River acting as the former devide between the communist north and non-communist south Vietman which existed prior to the Vietnam War. The Rockpile, a large rocky mountain which served as a lookout for American Troops, was used for time and held a base where beer and prostitutes had to flown in for them. Of course the 'inacessable' hill was eventually scaled by Viet Cong (Nth Vietnames Communist) and lost. Dang Ha Town, Bridges, parts of the Ho Chi Minh Trail, Village and the Khe Sanh Combat Base where also on the agenda. The highlight though was the Vinh Moc Tunnels, we were able to walk through the labineth - pretty amazing stuff. The bus trip out there was another 'highlight' and we are back in Hue before pressing onto Hanoi tomorrow by plane. (Just as a side note; Vietnam Airlines place cameras at the front and bottom of the plane so you can see the pilots view on take off and the birds eye view on landing, this was great!)

Natalie; Nothing much more to add, so I thought I would give you a quick run down on the food thus far, (since we have been loving it everywhere we go...bar one)

The bad was what could only be described as 'clag on a plate' - description given...pancake...interestng concept. (It still makes us gag at the thought)
Our top dishes:
Siem Reap - Amok..must find recipe NOW! (this dish has put Cambodia on the culinary map) It is fish with lemongrass and curry etc.
Saigon - Pho...the breakfast that starts a nation (rice noodles with beef in a bowl of broth)
Hoi An - (By far the winner on all fronts) White Rose (wontons filled with love) My crab with tamarind...druelling already...Fish hot pot...OH YEAH
Hue - Cha Lau (You guessed it - more noodles) and the shrimp spring roles made fresh. A magnificent iced tea drink that tasted like berries....very refreshing when you have been cycling a while.

Loving the rambutans and some random fruit that I bought at the markets was not bad either.

The pineapple shakes, banana shakes, watermelon shakes...all good stuff. Iced coffee in the morning freshly brewed with sweetened condensed milk and massive chunks of ice, I know we have said this before - TRY IT NOW before it becomes commercial :) Lauren had her first steak tonight after obsessing about a wee little french restaurant - she is now 'ironed' up and ready to go. I took one look at the chips and being the good Irish/Polish girl that I am ordered some mashed potato - Granny would be so proud.

That's about it. We are off to Hanoi and onto Ha Long bay for some more local specialities and hopefully some great kayaking.

Happy Snaps - Approx 550...and counting (although I think there will be a massive edit when I get home)

Planes, Trains and Automobiles...

Natalie: Yesterday, Lauren and I spent 4 - 5 hours sorting through books and fabric not to mention everyone tugging at you at once. We spent the afternoon relaxing from the stress of it all with some crazy women that gave us pedicures and screamed a lot. I have to say that I am definitely eating my way through this place, the food is amazing. We have been eating a lot of fish and drinking about 2 litres of water a day...man, you really need it!

Lauren: Today Nat and I arranged for 2 drivers with Motor bikes to take us through some country side to My Son (MORE temples!) The ride was the highlight, taking us past villages and rice fields filled with ladies wearing their conical hats! Really beautiful and being closer to the ground (ie not on a bus) gives you a great new perspective of what's around. Definately a highlight and well worth the slight extra we paid to skip to crowded bus. The trip also included a stop at a pottery place where we both got to try our hand at the wheel, my attempt was a disgrace! Further on, we saw a silk weaving factory, pretty interesting, before stopping in a village to see rice paper being made - this was really great, we ate it in three different forms and the women here were just great (ie crazy) They had two pig pens, really clean (I have to say that everywhere is really clean) and while I wanted to take home a wee babe for a pet (they are very smart you know!) I think these ladies had something else in mind for my new little pink cutey wutey friends. Oh dear! (The pork was luuurvely!)

Natalie: Onto My Son, we were wondering why one of our drivers was not keen to come with us....we soon discovered that at 12.30 in the middle of the day it is kinda hot (yes I am blonde, no comments please) by approximately 12.35 I was drowning in my own sweat and was wondering why I would even consider going to another temple considering we had seen a few and I have the 350 photos to prove it...cough. Anyway, lacking water, almost dilerious and seriously panting I was not in the mood for the jokes coming from our driver. Took charge, and we left (after seeing it all of course). I might add at this point that it was about 35 degrees in the shade. We headed back to town after lunch and went back for our first fitting in the afternoon (excellent idea) no air con, in a cubicle the size of you and a million people walking to and fro (marvellous) it is shall we say...different trying on a fully lined suit with shirt...I have quite a few pieces and it is not something that I would like to go through again. I did get a black suite fully lined in hot pink...sick one.

Off tomorrow for a cooking course and more sights.

Every Day is a Weekend my Friend

N: Well Saigon was definitely interesting to say the least, 6 million people and they all seem to be on the roads driving towards us at one time. We managed to cross the road for the first time...wait for it, two old ladies took pity on us and helped us across the road...they would have been 60 in the shade..ha ha! After our initiation we were professionals and were helping other tourists navigate the madness. We did a great walking tour of the city and I took us on some designated detours...I was not lost :)

L: There is a real French influence in Saigon, they ruled Vietnam for many years and really left their mark in regards to architecture, food and gardens. The War Museum was very sobering, they pull no punches in this place and really leave you wondering about the dark side of human beings. On a lighter note, the markets were fantastic, but some will be shocked to hear that I STILL havent bought a thing. Last night we skipped the motorbike idea and took cyclos for a wee tour, was heaps of fun and just a fantastic feeling being here. This morning Nat and I sought out a Blind Institute, these people make their living giving massages. So, we signed up for another very interesting experience! Hardly The Dome Retreat (Brisbane marriotts AWARD winning day spa, voted top 10 urban spas in the world - stick it Sydney) Yes, I work in Sales. But for $2US was wonderful and our ladies were lovely (and somewhat cruel as well) So,we are now in one of the most beautiful place I have been, Hoi An. THIS is what my shopping dollars have been waiting for, I tell you, I was FROTHING at the mouth as we came into town. This village on the water is a shoppers paradise - shoes, clothes, bags and nik naks - all for me! Better check my card balance before I go nuts and order the small freighter to take it back!!!!

N: "Just money? No bomb?" was the question I was asked with a smile as we were going through security at Saigon airport...um cough..but the guard must have seen the shock on my face and gave me a little slap on the back. We got the dogiest cab EVER from Danang, I think this guy had serious issues - of the mental variety and was looking at bikes like they were target practice, at one stage I think he was looking at a student on a bike as 50 points if he knocked them off. We finally arrived in one piece - just, to the most charming hotel ever, Michael Cain used two rooms as dressing rooms when filming The Quiet American, the place is AWESOME! Sorry for all of you sitting at your desks, but I will have photos...of course. Have not had a chance to shop, but had a wonderful dinner at a place over the river. On this issue of shopping...shoes, shoes, shoes...not in neon, just in my wildest dreams! You should see this place, Lauren is not the only one foaming at the chomps, I am salivating...Hey Suncorp, can I have an advance on the next couple of months pay?? We are going to head out for an early brekkie. Can't shop on an empty stomach now can we..Maybe a little latte sipping (Oh so Sydney) of the ice variety, which might I say is made with sweetend condenced milk...giddy up! Try it...

L: I fogot to mention THE LAMPS! Love the lamps. The streets are lined with lanterns...may write a letter to old man campbell newman for some in Brissy, pretty sweet.

N: We find that the Vietnamese love to say "same same, only different" when they are comparing anything with another country...quite funny really as they always crack themselves up when saying it.

Off now, catch you tomorrow when we can display our shopping prowess...in a list style...maybe, if you are lucky...

Mekong - Saigon

Natalie; We sadly departed Cambodia via bus (man did that make us feel sick....very bumpy ride) arriving at Neak Leoung to transfer to our boat...chicken run style. The Mekong is massive and we sat on the front of the boat soaking up the views along the way...Kate and Leonardo style ha ha..not quite as we did get a little burnt.

Lauren; The Mekong is home to alot of villages and farms; lots of excited kids waving to us. One thing nat and I didnt think we would suffer from here is tired arms from waving and sore cheeks from smiling! Water buffalo, cows, the odd pig, stacks of rice drying the sun; sitting on the bow with our Rambutans and water watching it all go by was a nice way to spend a few hours. Border crossing in Vietnam was pretty easy as we had a guide bribing half the population as we went. Onto another boat before arriving Chau Doc, a fishing town. Pretty interesting with houses, shops, even petrol stations floating on the river beside this friendly town (not alot of tourist so we got alot of smiles and 'hello's").

Natalie: The following morning we headed on a tour that went to a floating fish farm and a Cham minority village. The Cham people live across the river from the town and do some lovely weaving. We jumped on our bus to Saigon and made a couple of stops on the way as it is a 6 hour trip with no less than 14 people in a mini bus...plus luggage..comfy...nice...different...I like it :) We stopped at an incense factory for no reason other than to see the workers and how they made the sticks, some 5000 a day for $2US pay..very disappointed that we did not get to buy any and possibly help them out. We arrived in Saigon (we have been corrected a number of times on the HCMC) around 5 and after finding a nice hotel headed to the Rex rooftop bar for a cocktail or two. Great views and lovely atmosphere, we caught up with an Aussie couple...and hold your breath guys....they talk me out of the park...seriously these guys don't come up for air! They were great to chat with and seemed to be having a good time as well. The only sour note was that the staff tried to hit us up for $60US instead of the $23US that we had spent, good thing neither of us drink much as we were told it was a 15 % surcharge..um hello, last time I checked that was not 15% of $23....We are now off to walk around the city and take in the museums, markets etc, maybe have a bowl of 'pho noodle soup'.

Ciao xxx

Phnom Pehn, Monks and Football

Natalie: We sadly departed Siem Reap yesterday on a tour bus that took 5 1/2 hours to get us here. The bus arrived and boy did the people swarm, at one stage another passenger told them all to calm down, this was followed by the whole crowd laughing and saying yes yes, you calm down. Funnier if you were actually there but deserved a mention as we had about 20 people around us that have no idea of personal space screaming that we should go to there guest houses, they have tuk tuk, they have clean rooms! We finally chose lakeside as it was recommended by another tourist that for some strange reason was hanging around the bus touting with them...dodgy...perhaps, but all the same the place is fine and the view over the lake is sublime.

lauren: The afternoon in Phnom Pehn was spent at the Royal Palace and Silver Pagoda. As with alot of the places we've been, there were a number of monks around - seriously the friendliest and most beautiful you will come across. Always, up for a chat 'with the ladies' we were lucky enough to have a young Monk show us through the palace. They seem as curious about us as we are of them and it only takes a smile before they are practising their english with us. The other toursist get kinda jealous but I tell you, we are Monk Magnets! Awesome.

Being the cultural buff I am, I suggested we find a bar showing the State of Origin! i Know...very sad. Nat found a Walkabout listed and for anyone who has experienced a Walkabout overseas knows this is usually a good humoured aussie pub. This one though was kinda different! Slimy fat old Aussie men learing over their young Cambodian girlfriends were the only people other than us. Ewwww! As I said, different...but we got to watch the game with the best team winning on the day. Of course.

Natalie: Well I have to say that QLD won fair and square even if I don't like it! I am also not happy JAN that Germany were knocked out of the world cup....There goes me winning the work sweeps.

Today started out with us heading to S-21 which was formerly a high school that was turned into a prison interrogation camp under Pol Pot's regime of terror. We hired a guide who gave us a lot of information about the atrocities that took place in this sombre run down old school. Some 20000 people were interrogated here and then taken to the killing fields (which we also went to) to be executed and dumped into mass graves. I know this is not the sort of thing you may like to here about but I think it is important to highlight that Pol Pot also known as Brother number one committed one of the largest genocides in our lifetime, under him approximately 2 - 3 million Khmer people (as the Cambodians call themselves) were killed for no reason at all. You cannot imagine the images they actually show you in this place. Having said all of this the people here are amazing with the way they have dealt with the hardship and adversity, they always have a smile for you and are genuinely wanting to know about you. They are also hard workers and want to work which has been something that has struck us along the way.

Lauren; Well, Natalie has touched on some of the hardships experienced by the wonderful people of this country though there is so much more. We have really fallen for a country home to people that have a spirit and sense of fun that I havent seen before. They look forward to a peaceful and prosperous future and we are sad to say goodbye. As with post place I visit, I wish I had more time but we are leaving in the morning for a pretty exciting journey into the Mekong Delta (parts that we will see via boat have not been open to foreigners for quite some time, though I promise its very safe!) Asias greatest river system will be a treat and will travel by bus and boat until we reach Vietnams largest city, Saigon. We will of course be updating again from there. Bye for now. xxx Lauren & Natalie.

Indianna Jones Country

Well, Cambodia has not disapointed so far. The people, culture, history....this place has it all. Angkor is without doubt the best ancient site in the world and I can only be thankful that we have experienced this great wonder before tourists are no longer able to access the areas that we are able to now. Tourism is really taking off here in a big way - really THE hot place to be. The five star hotels are being built at an incredible rate and it wont be long before boardwalks, ropes and guards will determine how much you can really see. I will not forget the last two days in a hurry! The jungle ravaged temples have been a highlight and also a relief from the heat (though not as hot as I expected)

Well, still figuring out the new camera but have some great shots so far. 140 in two days to be exact. Now, while some may feel this is excessive, I AM travelling with Miss "This is a great shot 2006". Natalie has so far taken around 300 photos. Apparently deleting two today in order to make more space was pretty traumatic. Totally ridiculous of course. It was with caution that I broached this subject at around 10.00am today (day TWO!) With 3 weeks left, there was space for around 16 more shots - so I was just wondering how much of her spending money she planned to spend on these giggy bite cards thingos. (Well, she offered to shout me a massage, so I needed to know!) All in good fun - we both have some fantastic stuff and will be inviting all uninterested parties to our respective slide evenings. Coffee served.

Speaking of coffee, its served here with condensed milk. Try it.

Well, tomorrow we visit one more temple - said to be made by women as a mans hands could not possibly create such fine artwork. And while we have been to Angkor three times, another wont hurt - I'm still hoping to get my ride in Cambodias very beautiful and extremely safe yellow balloon. Abit windy so far to fly - though I cant see the problem - its tied to a large rope, what could possibly go wrong for $4 US???? (Nat here - oh and I have issues with photos? Check this chick out and her obsession with a freakin balloon - even the driver thinks she may be on a little too much caffeine....)

Ok. ok. So I like heights and yellow balloons and photos. Deep, very deep.

Well, off to rest in our luxury suite with fluffy pillows and maid service. Good Night. xxxx

See you in PP!